Going Places

Amsterdam: Unique is a word that comes to mind when I think about Amsterdam. What also comes to mind is crazy, mad, loony, weird, bizarre, extreme, excessive, insane and fascinating. There’s no other city in the world that can accurately be compared to Amsterdam because there’s simply no other city like it but I’ll give it a shot using multiple cities into one simple formula:

Amsterdam = (Canals of Venice + Renaissance Style) x Haight-Ashbury x Bicycles x Monte Carlo x Vegas ÷ (Buffets + Heat)

Or, more simply:  A= (CV + RS) x HA x BI x MC x V ÷ (B +H)

While we were in Amsterdam we found time to visit the Anne Frank house. It was eerie to walk up the same stairs she did and look at the same walls she stared at for days and days.  

Over the course of the semester, I have been going on excursions through ISA and seeing historical locations in Spain – The Alhambra, Cathedrals from centuries ago, Toledo, old mosques etc., etc. Anne Frank was living in the annex of the house less than seventy years ago. It’s hard to think about Anne being a 20^th century historical figure, a modern historical figure.

Amsterdam is a place where a lot of people think differently and I think I’ll leave it at that.

Hostels: Awesome alternative to hotels. They’re filled with like-minded young people travelling and seeing new places. They are a great place to meet people and connect with people from all over the world. In Amsterdam, we even stayed at a boat hostel called Intersail.

Here, my roommate Murphy and I are hanging out on the dock in front of Intersail. Our quarters or cabin, a little boat jargon, is the smallest room I think I’ll ever see with four beds in it but we couldn’t care less. We were only there for sleeping and eating breakfast. My first hostel experience was a roaring success.

The Finnish Rapper: When the chance to study abroad came up I jumped at the opportunity. I wanted to see foreign places and meet people that think differently than the American archetype. I got all I could hope for then some from the man I happened to plop down next to on a bus ride from Brussels to Amsterdam. He loved to talk and for the next three hours, I let him.

Tommy is a passionate anti-capitalist, a holdover from the former Soviet Bloc. He is a strong believer that money is the root of all evil. He told me that he had an education from the real-world. He decided to forgo going to University or a trade school despite government subsidized post secondary education. He bluntly told me that with all the young, more-qualified Finns, he has almost no chance to get any employment he would enjoy in his native Finland.

Tommy seemed jaded when talking about Finland but he had a cheery overall demeanor about life. When we met he was scribbling down rap lyrics. He told me that everybody should do what they love. “I love rapping, so I rap,” he said with a smile. He told me he raps about three things, “Life, love, and respect.”

You can listen to Tommy here: http://www.myspace.com/lostadam

Note: In my further research of Finland I found information online that seemed to contrast what Tommy had told me. In 2009, Finland was ranked #1 (the U.S. came in at #9) on the Legatum Prosperity Index which is an annual ranking based on several different factors including: economic growth, personal well-being, wealth and quality of life.

Brussels: Brussels is boring. Don’t go to Brussels. Really, don’t go. Promise me you won’t go. I’m not kidding.

Brussels is home to the EU (snore). They have a giant atom monument (yawn). They have a statue of a little kid peeing (the fact that this is a major tourist attraction should tell you something).

Beach: I went to a beach in a town called Salobreña yesterday and took my first swim in the Mediterranean. It was quite cold. Afterwards, I felt like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cUNNKzj_Nc&feature=related

At the beach in Salobreña, you can be playing around in the sand with your feet in the water and look back and see snow on the mountains a few miles back. It was strange.  

A couple thoughts on the beach:

1) Pale is the new tan. I know I’ve been saying this for years, but this year it’s for real. Conan O’Brien is leading the charge. If ya ain’t pale, ya ain’t cool.

2) Every year that I get older it becomes more and more acceptable to have a large mane of dark chest hair - which I have and is delightful.

Next time: Spanish food (I know I said this before but next time it’s really happening) and why it makes perfect sense that Don Quixote is a Spaniard.

Spain and Rain

Blog News: Due to recent complaints, mostly from my little brother, the blog will stay focused on Spain, my travels and observations. I’m also leaving behind the political journalistic tone of my last entry. From this point on you’ll be getting my personality for better or worse.


Let me first apologize for not having anything new for nearly a month. To make up for it, this entry is going to be a long one. Do you think you can handle it? I think you can. Take a deep breath, dive in.

Excuses: One reason for the lack of entries is I got caught up reading Blink by Malcolm Gladwell which is an interesting page-turner that I would recommend to anyone interested in social psychology. Another reason is that I haven’t spent a full weekend in Granada since the weekend of February 6th.

Ronda: Above is a picture of the mountainous Spanish town of Ronda. It is a town built on a cliff. As an acrophobic, it was a frightening experience crossing the Puente Nueva (New Bridge) which was built in the 18th century. Navigating our way across the bridge was difficult with cars zipping by in both directions and the looming 390-foot drop to our left and right. Our tour guide added to my anxiety by casually adding that several Spaniards have fallen or jumped from the misnamed bridge. The bridge was also used during the Spanish Civil War. A number of fascists were thrown from the bridge by Nationalist troops. Ernest Hemingway used the accounts of the killings in his classic For Whom the Bell Tolls. The horrific images serve as a painful reminder to the citizens of Ronda of the brutality of the Spanish Civil War. After overcoming my fear, I clutched on to a New Jersey acquaintance and fellow acrophobic, I could truly appreciate the spectacular views that Ronda had to offer.

In Ronda, our ISA group visited an Arabic bath dating back from the 13th or 14th century. At the Alhambra last month we also got to explore an Arabic bath and I must say I find them strangely comforting. I could picture men and women wandering around, towels of some kind around their waists, steam rising through the star shapes in the brick ceiling. I’m a guy who loves a nice, hot shower (more about this later) and I feel like it’s one of the few things I have in common with Spaniards from centuries ago.

*****

I’m proud to say I’m now a veteran of two carnival festivals; a small one in Malaga and the carnival of carnivals, or so I’m told, in Cadiz. Carnival is like a big party in the streets. People dress up in costumes and party all through the town. One Virginian Mardi Gras veteran in my program described it as a combination of Halloween and Mardi Gras.

Cadiz is located on a thin strip of land coming out of the southwest corner of Spain underneath Portugal. It is considered to be located on both the Atlantic Ocean, the beach on the north side of town, and the Mediterranean Sea, the beach on the south. The beach was the first place I went after the bus arrived and I took in some views and that salty sea smell. It was February and surfers in wetsuits were out catching waves. My costume consisted of shimmering blue hair, one of those glasses-nose-mustache masks, and a bright orange boa. I looked ridiculous but, in Cadiz, most people do.

We ate some delicious food and saw a band play. They played pop music with a little bit of a rock sensibility. The lead singer had all the girls swooning. He was a Taylor Lautner lookalike. I must admit he did have some stage presence and I enjoyed the show.

Cadiz has the highest unemployment rate in all of Spain at over 20%. Despite the high unemployment, Gaditanos are known as being some of the friendliest and funniest people in all of Spain. People flooded the narrow streets in costumes of all kind including…

NA’VI!!!

Our first eight hours in Cadiz were fantastic. We ate, drank, sat on the beach, saw live music, got lost and met some interesting people. The last six were horrendous. Rain started coming down around midnight. At first the light drizzle didn’t bother me but by 12:30 am, it started dumping and didn’t stop the rest of the night. The bus we rode in on was taking us back to Granada at 6:00 am. For the next five hours, Kristen, Katie, Renae and I shuffled to different bars, restaurants, cafes, overhangs, lobbies, and entryways, getting booted out of several in the process. Our goal for the night turned from have a blast to survive. I must say, I’ve never felt more like a homeless person. To pass the time we played Desert Island, a game where you make lists of the top-5 things (books, films, bands, etc. etc.) you’d take with you to a desert island.

Note: During Desert Island you have to be very careful what you pick. You’re going to have to watch and read and listen to these things over and over again for the rest of your life. You want them to be timeless. One member of our group chose these 5 films to watch for the rest of her life:

1. The Notebook (Nice choice)

2. Dirty Dancing (a bit of a stretch but..)

She then paused and took a moment to think about her next choice and said,

3. Dirty Dancing: Havana Nights (WHAAAAT?!)

Dirty Dancing: Havana Nights?!? That garbage sequel! I couldn’t believe it. I’m trying to figure out what her brain was thinking during this time and figure out the logic: The Godfather – “Nah,” Shawshank Redemption – “Not for me,” Forrest Gump – “Not quite,” Dirty Dancing: Havana Nights – “Nailed it!” It’s baffling. The worst part of the whole session was she didn’t even pick her last 2 movies. She simply said, “That’s all I need.” 67% of the movies she’s going to watch for the next 60 years are about Dirty Dancing. I’m still flabbergasted.

TERRIBLE NEWS: For a while now, other tenants of our apartment complex have been complaining of water leaking into their homes. The leak appeared to be coming from our apartment but after 2 or 3 examinations, no signs of water damage were found. This led to several multiple-hour dinner table rants from our senora protesting her innocence and complaining of the hassle. Out of the blue, the superintendent comes for one last clean sweep. This time he checked Murphy’s and my room and, sure enough, under my desk, he found crusty and wet drywall scattered on the floor. For the past two days our room has been completely ripped apart. The old pipes are being removed and new brass pipes are being placed inside the wall and being dry-walled over. Note: I’m not a plumber or have any expertise whatsoever on this matter, but I definitely feel my senora is getting taken for a ride. A little leak and you have to rip apart the whole house and replace all the pipes? Come on. Do any plumbers read this (or anyone for that matter)? Thoughts?

Showers and hot water are out the window. We have a bucket to brush our teeth. The pipe to the toilet is also being replaced. I had to go about an hour ago (midnight), I’ll leave it to your imagination what I did. This has all led to this… I stink. I stink to high heaven. I smell worse than Penn Jillette after a jog. If Portugal reports any unusual odors, please tell them what has happened and apologize profusely for me.

More Personal Hygiene Notes: I haven’t shaved or cut my hair since my trip started January 26. I’m starting to look like Vinnie Chase during his Mexico sabbatical, only with fewer girls around… and no Turtle.

NEXT TIME: Brussels, Amsterdam, Ty meets a white Finnish rapper, why Spaniards are like Don Quixote and why I hate mushy pea soup.

Hasta luego,

Ty

La Alhambra

February 13, 2010

This picture was taken from the Mirador de San Nicolás which is in the Arabic barrio of Granada called the Albaicín. The view from the Mirador de San Nicolás is incredible and was made more picturesque by the setting sun. From this point, I had a great view of the Alhambra, the Sierra Nevada mountain range, and the city of Granada.

A very brief history… The Alhambra is a Moorish palace and fortress constructed during the 14th century in Granada. When the city of Granada was taken by Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castille in 1492, the Alhambra fell into Christian hands without being attacked, helping preserve the structure of the Alhambra.

Above is a picture from the gardens of the Alhambra. Near the bottom of the picture, you’ll notice crops which were planted in the 19th century. They grow sugar cane, asparagus, and several other crops. Fig trees are also planted in the gardens. To the left, you see towers from the Alhambra and in the foreground you can see the city of Granada. I like this picture. With the fog rising up, it reminds me of an establishing shot from a film like Taken or one of the Bournes.

The picture above is from the Court of Lions. Unfortunately, the lions weren’t in their proper place in the middle of the court due to construction. If you look closely, you can see traces of paint etched intricately on the walls. Most of the paint was faded but from it one can sense what it felt like to walk the halls of the palace centuries ago: deep blue and sparkling red walls, intricate craftsmanship, silk drapes, flowing water, with views of lush gardens and grand towers.

This is a view of the Albaicín from the Alhambra. The streets of the Albaicín are narrow and twist sharply around buildings, a sign of their once ancient past. It is a popular area for flamenco dancing shows and our group was lucky enough to see one (I hope to have a post about it in the coming weeks).

Fact about the Alhambra you won’t find on Wikipedia: The Alhambra has a rat problem. To combat this, cats have been released to roam the grounds in order to keep the rats in check. I’m not kidding. On our tour I saw three different cats. Bizarre.

Fact about the Alhambra you will find on Wikipedia: It was home to the famous early-American writer Washington Irving. He is most famous for short stories like “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow” and “Rip Van Winkle.” Irving lived in the palace in the 19th century while he worked on a collection of short stories and essays entitled, “Tales of the Alhombra.”

Final thought on the Alhambra… The Alhombra is an ancient monument but it has been remarkably well preserved. Most of the buildings and towers of the original structure are completely intact. The Alhambra, along with the Pyramids of Giza and the Great Wall of China, has to be considered one of the finest preserved monuments of the ancient world. It is a joy to visit and I hope to go back before my time in Granada is up.

More to come in the next few days!

Stay tuned.

¡Saludos!

Ps. Popular song in Spain - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5PQ01czr8k - housewife sighting.

24 hours a day, 7 days a week

February 7, 2010

Two weeks into my Spanish adventure. I’m beginning to feel adapted and a sense of comfort in this strange land. The late dinners, the long walks, the gypsies, have all become a part of my everyday Granada life.

My new family... My señora’s name is Purificacion Barranquero (purification of course is a reference to the Virgin Mary and references to her are quite common in Spanish names). With her is Abril, her 3-year-old abuelita. Despite her small stature, she’s not an inch taller than five-foot, Purificacion is a strong woman. She fights for what she believes in. She’s the kind of woman that isn’t afraid to tell a 230 pound man he’s dead wrong. She’s outspoken without apology. One cannot question her sincere love and admiration for her three children and her beloved granddaughter. Abril spends most meals eating with Murphy and me (she loves French fries) and could not be any more like her grandma. She loves the attention her grandmother showers on her and loves to express herself.

Musings on learning a language… I took two years of Spanish in high school and for the last three semesters of college, I’ve taken Spanish language classes. My college Spanish classes were 4-credit classes, four days a week, plus a lab. That’s not including the hour or more of homework each night. For three straight semesters I’ve been doing this.

I’ve been blessed with caring and attentive Spanish professors at both the high school and college level. Through their steadfast dedication and passion for teaching, I’ve progressed up to 300-level Spanish classes. When I searched for a destination to study abroad, going to Spain and immersing myself in the culture and language seemed an obvious choice.

What I’ve learned in my short time here is that the only way to truly learn a language is to completely immerse yourself in it. When English isn’t an option, you have no choice but to learn it. Being in Spain, is like Spanish class 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. A never ending string of Spanish exercises: ordering food from a waiter, buying groceries from the supermarket, asking for directions, watching television, it teaches you the language in the real world. I can feel myself improving every day.

Thoughts on food next week. Stay tuned!

Saludos,
Tyler

Some notable differences…

February 2, 2010

1. People dress very differently here. Many women wear black tights underneath skirts or shorts with striped shirts. Pea coats are everywhere. Scarves are very popular for men and women.

2. When Spaniards eat at home, it is in front of the television. The dinner table at our apartment is five feet from, and facing the TV. (Sidenote: Since our señora’s granddaughter Abril is here for most meals we often get to watch dibujos animados. And Spongebob Squarepants is funny in any language.)

3. When Spaniards converse they like to get real close to you. They also are touchy. They’ll grab your arm or put a hand on your shoulder. Needless to say, they keep your attention. I wasn’t uncomfortable and in fact found this to be a pleasant contrast to Americans who often seem disinterested while conversing.

4. Spaniards raise their voices frequently and seemingly for no reason at all. My señora’s vocal combination of speed and volume reaches levels that would suggest that I’ve just broken some sort of horrible, unforgiveable rule in Spain. But that’s just the way they talk over here: with force. That or my Spanish is so terrible that I continually break some kind of horrible, unforgiveable rule and I’m completely oblivious to it (unlikely).

5. Everything in Spain is smaller: roads, cars, elevators, rooms, restaurants, grocery stores, coca-colas, everything.

6. Spaniards conserve energy. If you think America is green, you can’t even imagine Spain. Por ejemplo, when you go into a hotel room, you have to put your key through a slot by the door. Only then can you use electricity. When you leave and take the card, everything turns off. Showers are short. Many Spaniards rinse off, turn off the water, lather up, and then turn the water back on to rinse, conserving every last drop. Clothes are not cleaned after every use but only when necessary.

7. Spaniards walk everywhere. When they can’t walk (if something more than forty minutes away on foot) they may take a bus or metro. Many Spaniards that do drive ride Vespas or motorcycles. How much money and energy do you think America could save by adopting just a few of these policies?

8. Siestas son muy populares para todo en España y me gustan las siestas.

9. Life is slower. People aren’t always busy. They sit down, eat long lunches, take long coffee breaks, and enjoy one another. With the advent of texting and emails, Americans often overlook the impersonal nature of many of our relationships. It’s refreshing to see people enjoying people. Spaniards may not enjoy everything America does on a material level, but most Americans don’t enjoy the way Spaniards do on a personal level.

Madrid

January 31, 2010

What an eclectic and fascinating city! There are approximately five million people living in Madrid. Walking through the city felt similar to walking through New York, taxis weave through the streets, walking traffic everywhere, small shops and restaurants, and a diverse population.

Above is a picture of me in front of the Palacio Real de Madrid. The palace has been rebuilt several times dating back to the tenth century but construction on the current palace dates back to 1764. The palace was occupied by many former kings and queens up until King Alfonso XIII and the start of the Spanish civil war in the 1930’s. Now the palace is used for official state events and as a tourist attraction. It remains the second largest palace in the world. Attempting to describe the building’s grand scale and elegance and offer you readers any true sense of what the building actually feels like is difficult. The building is hundreds of yards long. It has 2800 rooms. Marble floors, painted ceilings in the style of Michelangelo, massive columns, dining halls fit for hundreds, famous artwork and sculptures. Unfortunately, photography was not permitted inside the building.

After walking through the gates of the Palacio Real I came to a massive courtyard. Behind a large row of arches at the back of the courtyard was an overview of the city of Madrid. I couldn’t help but notice the stark contrast between where I stood and what I looked out upon.

*****

Madrid is one of the richest cultural centers in Spain and we were lucky enough to get the opportunity to visit the Museo del Prado, one of the most prominent collections of art in all of Europe. We examined paintings by Francisco Goya, Diego Velázquez, and El Greco. El Greco “The Greek” was born in Crete but is considered a key figure of the Spanish Renaissance. He developed his art and completed his masterpiece, The Burial of Señor Orgaz (formerly known as Count Orgaz) in Toledo, Spain. El Greco lived his last thirty-seven years in Toledo, the former Spanish capital. One painting of El Greco’s we examined at length was The Adoration of the Shepherds.

A couple of questions to consider… How is light working? Why is the world so dark? How are bodies constructed in the painting? Why were they painted this way? How does this painting compare to other paintings and painters, for example Michelangelo, of the Renaissance? How is El Greco offering a new perspective on reality (remember this is before the advent of photography)?

That’s all for this week, faithful readers. Next week, some notable differences between Spain and the United States. Stay tuned!

¡Adios!

¡Hola Amigos!

January 25, 2010

My name is Tyler Stoddard. I’m a junior at the University of Idaho and I’m majoring in English with a minor in history. I went to Lake City High School in Coeur d’Alene where I learned Spanish from Senora Everson. This semester my studies are taking me to Granada, Spain and to thank Sra. Everson for all she has done for me, I’m going to be writing a blog documenting my experience abroad.

I wanted to study abroad because I wanted to experience a different culture. I want to eat different foods, listen to foreign music, and dance the salsa. I feel like I’ve never really left my comfort zone. I’ve always had family and friends close. I’m trying to force myself to make the uncomfortable comfortable. I chose Spain because I have a background in Spanish and because I want to meet a girl that looks like Penelope Cruz. I chose Granada because a friend of mine visited Granada on his trip abroad and only had glowing things to say about the city and the people.

A major goal for my time abroad is to be fluent in Spanish. As of now, I would describe myself as a conversational speaker. I hear the transition from conversational to fluent is difficult but by completely immersing myself in the language, I think this is a reasonable goal to set for myself. Another goal is to expand my worldly view. Through my interactions with Spaniards I want to know how and why they think the way they do. I want to understand what being a Spaniard is.

I’m going to be taking two Spanish classes (language and literature) and two classes in English about Spanish culture. I’ll be sure to update you guys as soon as I know what my final schedule looks like.

A couple things you might like to know about me… Yes, I am JJ’s older brother. And yes, I do have embarrassing stories about him. I love sports and follow them closely. I’m a two-time Stoddard Brothers fantasy football league champion (Jay has not won a championship). I’m also a huge Lakers, Mariners, and Bill Simmons fan. I like the music of Dave Matthews, Interpol, Ben Harper, and Modest Mouse. I also am completely addicted to the show Lost. So much so that I have already decided my first son is going to be named Jack. Sadly, the sixth and final season will be starting a week after my arrival in Spain. I guess I’ll have to watch them online. I’m going to be living with a Spanish host family along with another American student named Murphy.

A little more about the blog… What I want out of this blog is for you guys to be able to see, hear, and experience along with me. Through the blog, I want us to have a dialogue about Spanish culture, religion, etc. and the similarities and differences with America. I want to hear all your questions and concerns so we make sure this blog is working efficiently. As the semester rolls along and my Spanish improves I hope to make some blog entries in Spanish. I also hope to post many pictures on the blog. This is my first time blogging so bear with me as I’m still just learning.

Right now, I’m sitting on the couch in my living room watching Jersey Shore. My mom is cooking hamburgers and my brothers are playing Nintendo. My next blog entry will be from Spain. No more Super Mario, no more American food, no more Mike “The Situation.”

¡Hasta luego!
Tyler